How to Knit the Oxburgh Folded-Rib Jumper (Step-by-Step Craft Tutorial)

Knit the Oxburgh Folded-Rib Jumper

How to Knit the Oxburgh Folded-Rib Jumper (Step-by-Step Craft Tutorial)

Introduction

If you love textured knits that look both modern and timeless, the Oxburgh folded-rib jumper is a beautiful project to try. This elegant drop-sleeve sweater features delicate chevron ridges and pleat-like ribbing that give the fabric a structured yet soft look. The design plays with direction and texture; vertical lines flow through the lower body, while the upper section forms raised folds that meet in gentle chevrons.

This guide will walk you through the construction concept, the main stitch pattern, and helpful tips to achieve neat results. You’ll learn how to work the characteristic folded rib texture and assemble the jumper with a professional finish, all explained clearly and simply for confident beginners and intermediate knitters.

Materials You’ll Need

To make this jumper, you’ll need:

Yarn: Worsted or light-aran weight wool (approximately 200 m / 220 yds per 100 g skein). Choose a yarn that has good stitch definition; this brings out the folded rib details.
Needles: 4.5 mm and 5 mm straight needles or circulars if you prefer.
Accessories: Cable needle, stitch markers, stitch holders, and a yarn needle for finishing.
Gauge (tension): About 20 stitches × 24 rows = 10 cm over the rib pattern using 5 mm needles.
Accurate tension ensures your finished garment fits properly and that the textured lines align perfectly between the body and sleeves.

Understanding the Structure

The jumper is worked in four pieces—back, front, and two sleeves—then seamed together. The construction uses drop sleeves, meaning the shoulder line falls slightly down the arm for a relaxed fit.

Two distinct sections form the overall design:

Lower Body and Sleeves: These feature wide vertical ribs that elongate the silhouette.
Upper Body: The ribs transform into angled folds. By twisting stitches and alternating directions, the ribs create a chevron pattern, a sophisticated optical texture that catches the light beautifully.

The same folded-rib concept is echoed in the cuffs and neckline for a cohesive, tailored finish.

Step 1 – Cast On and Work the Lower Rib

Start by casting on the required stitches for your size. The lower border is worked in a simple rib sequence that provides structure to the hem. This section also prevents the fabric from curling and acts as a neat transition to the decorative ribs above.

After completing several rows of the border, switch to the 5 mm needles and begin the lower rib pattern. This consists of knit and purl combinations arranged in wide columns. Keep your tension even so that the vertical ribs stay crisp and uniform. Continue until this portion reaches the indicated length; this forms the smooth base before the folds begin.

Step 2 – Create the Folded-Rib Texture

The magic of this design lies in the upper portion, where the ribs start to “fold.” Each fold is made by using small cable crossings combined with knit and purl stitches.

Here’s what happens visually: the twisted stitches pull the rib lines in alternating directions, forming tiny pleats. These pleats repeat across the width, gradually building up the chevron shape. The folds are emphasized by rows of garter stitch in between, which highlight the change of direction.

To maintain consistency:

Use a cable needle when crossing stitches to the front or back as required.
Keep the folds tight but not stiff — too much tension will distort the fabric.
After every repeat, check that the diagonal ridges align correctly across the row.

Once you’ve completed several pattern repeats, you’ll start to see the graceful “V” shapes appearing across the chest.

Step 3 – Shape the Shoulders and Neckline

When the back piece reaches the desired length, you’ll divide stitches to shape the shoulders and neck. Each shoulder section is cast off gradually to create a gentle slope.

For the front, the shaping is slightly different because of the neckline curve. You’ll begin neck decreases earlier, so the front edge dips neatly in the center. Remember to maintain the folded-rib pattern as you decrease — this keeps the chevron lines continuous and polished.

After binding off both sides, lightly block the front and back pieces before assembly. This helps the textured ribs relax and makes seaming much easier.

Step 4 – Knit the Drop Sleeves

Each sleeve begins with a matching ribbed border and then follows the same pattern logic as the body. The lower sleeve echoes the wide vertical ribs, while the upper part incorporates the folded rib texture.

Because the sleeves are wide and slightly cropped, they are comfortable and modern. Increase gradually along both sides to create the drop-shoulder shape. Continue knitting until the sleeve length matches your measurements, then bind off loosely to avoid a tight edge.

Step 5 – Join and Finish the Jumper

Block all pieces to their final measurements according to the yarn label. When assembling:

Join one shoulder seam first.
Pick up stitches around the neckline using the smaller needle and work a few rows of simple ribbing — this gives a clean, flexible edge.
Sew the second shoulder and attach the sleeves by matching their center points to the shoulder seams.
Close the side and underarm seams neatly with mattress stitch.

Finally, weave in all yarn ends and give your finished jumper a gentle steam block to enhance the pleated texture.

Helpful Tips for Best Results

Choose a solid color: Light or mid-tone shades show off the folds and chevrons more clearly than dark yarns.
Practice the cable crosses first: Even small twists can change the direction of the ribs, so getting comfortable with the technique ensures symmetry.
Block carefully: Don’t over-stretch the fabric — you want to keep the dimensional texture intact.
Mind your stitch count: The folded-rib pattern repeats over six stitches, so double-check counts after increases or decreases.

Why You’ll Love Making This Jumper

The Oxburgh folded-rib jumper combines mindfulness and artistry in knitting. The rhythmic repetition of cables and ribs makes it engaging without being overwhelming. It’s warm yet breathable, elegant yet relaxed — the kind of piece that pairs easily with jeans, skirts, or tailored trousers.

Knitting this pattern is also a great way to learn how texture and direction affect fabric behavior. By observing how twisted stitches create depth and reflection, you’ll gain valuable skills for designing your own textured projects in the future.

Conclusion

This beautiful folded-rib sweater is a perfect project for knitters who enjoy texture, geometry, and refined craftsmanship. With patient attention to the rib pattern and neat finishing, you’ll create a jumper that feels as good as it looks—soft, sculptural, and timeless.

Whether you’re knitting it for yourself or as a handmade gift, the Oxburgh jumper will always stand out for its graceful chevrons and subtle pleats, proof that true beauty lies in every carefully formed stitch.