If you’ve ever admired the sleek look of tailored jackets, trousers, or vests, chances are you’ve noticed the neat rectangular openings known as welt pockets. These pockets add a refined, professional touch to garments — yet they can be surprisingly simple to sew once you understand the process.
In this tutorial, we’ll walk through how to sew a single welt pocket using a regular sewing machine. This streamlined version uses only a welt strip and one pocket bag, making it ideal for lightweight or unlined garments like chore jackets or casual blazers.
Let’s get started!
What Is a Single Welt Pocket?
A single welt pocket features one visible band of fabric (the “welt”) that neatly covers the pocket opening. Unlike flap or double-welt pockets, this version lies flatter against the garment, giving it a clean, low-profile finish.It’s perfect for casual jackets, dresses, or pants, and the visible topstitching gives it a slightly modern, utilitarian look — perfect if you love minimalist sewing styles.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
- Fabric for your garment
- Matching thread
- Fusible interfacing (optional for stability)
- Scissors or rotary cutter
- Ruler or measuring tape
- Tailor’s chalk or fabric marker
- Pins or fabric clips
- Iron and pressing cloth
Step 1: Mark and Staystitch the Pocket Opening
On the wrong side of your garment fabric, mark a rectangle for your pocket opening.
A standard welt pocket opening measures about 6¼ inches long and 1⅛ inches wide, but you can adjust this to suit your design.
Use tailor’s tacks or chalk to mark each corner. Then draw a center line through the middle of the rectangle and add a line ¼ inch above it — this will guide your staystitching.
Next, staystitch along the rectangle, beginning and ending on a long edge rather than a corner. When you reach a short edge, count your stitches so both ends are perfectly even.
This step stabilizes the fabric and defines the clean opening you’ll create later.
Step 2: Cut the Opening
Using sharp scissors, carefully cut along the center line of the rectangle, stopping ¼ inch from each end. Then snip diagonally into the corners, forming small triangles.Be careful not to cut past the stitching — this precision will give your pocket a professional look.
Step 3: Press the Opening Edges
Cut a strip of sturdy paper or card (like a manila folder) the size of your opening. Place it under one edge of the opening on the wrong side, and press the fabric over it.
Repeat with the opposite edge.
Turn the fabric right side up and check that the rectangular opening is crisp, smooth, and symmetrical.
Pressing carefully here makes the next steps much easier.
Step 4: Prepare the Pocket Bag
On the wrong side of your garment, mark where the pocket bag will sit. It should extend about 1 inch above and to each side of the opening, and you can make it as deep as you like.
Cut the pocket bag piece the same width as your markings, adding ¼ inch seam allowance all around.
Press the seam allowances under on all sides for a neat finish.
Pin the pocket bag to the garment, right side up, matching it within the marked placement area.
Then, from the right side of the garment, edgestitch along the upper edge of the opening — this attaches the pocket bag securely in place.
Step 5: Make and Insert the Welt
Cut a welt rectangle measuring about 6¾ inches by 3¼ inches. Press a ¼-inch seam allowance to the wrong side along one short end.Now fold the welt in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges. Don’t stitch the short ends closed yet.
To insert the welt:
- Slide its raw edges into the pocket opening so that the folded long edge just covers the staystitching line.
- The folded ends should cover the short staystitching lines at each side.
- Move the pocket bag out of the way for now, and pin the welt along the lower edge of the opening.
For a clean inside finish, serge or zigzag-stitch along the seam allowances to prevent fraying.
Step 6: Finish the Pocket
To close and secure everything neatly:- Fold the pocket bag into position behind the welt, making sure it lies flat.
- Smooth the welt so it sits evenly in the opening.
- On the right side, topstitch small rectangles at each welt end to anchor the layers — these stitches also enclose the little corner triangles you clipped earlier.
- Finally, edgestitch around the pocket bag’s outer edges to finish it completely.
Step 7: Customize Your Pocket
You can make your welt pocket any size or shape — square, slanted, or even curved — as long as the pocket bag fully covers the welt area inside.
Try adding contrasting fabric for the welt or pocket lining for a fun, designer-inspired detail. This simple method is especially good for unlined garments, since the inside stays neat and flat without loose flaps.
Final Press and Styling Tips
Give your finished pocket a gentle press with a pressing cloth to smooth any puckers.The result is a low-profile, sturdy pocket that looks professionally sewn — perfect for jackets, skirts, or even the back of casual pants.
Once you’ve made one, you’ll want to add welt pockets to everything!
Conclusion
Sewing a single welt pocket might seem intimidating at first, but this simplified two-piece method proves it’s absolutely achievable for home sewers. With careful marking, pressing, and stitching, you can achieve crisp results without complex tailoring techniques.
So next time you’re making a lightweight jacket or dress, try adding this pocket — you’ll love the polished finish and the practicality it brings to your handmade wardrobe.
